Koh Chang – Wyspa z marzeń

Marzenia, a monsun

Od dawna jasne były dwie rzeczy: imperatyw podróży do Tajlandii, oraz to, że urlop jest zaplanowany na listopad. Jest jednak problem z pogodzeniem tych dwóch kwestii. Listopad to w tym regionie okres przejściowy pomiędzy porą deszczową, a porą suchą, do tego moment zakończenia monsunu jest kwestią osobniczą dla poszczególnych regionów kraju. Z tego powodu w pierwszej kolejności trzeba było wyeliminować rajskie Krabi, bardzo chętnie odwiedzane przez turystów. Zachodnia część kraju w tym czasie nadal jest pod wpływem wilgotnych mas powietrza i silnych opadów deszczu. Skoro nie zachód, to trzeba jechać na wschód! Bez zastanowienia zdecydowałam się na wybór Koh Chang – leżącej przy granicy z Kambodżą.

Kilka osób mówiło mi o tej wyspie. Cichy raj, jeszcze nierozjechany przez masową turystykę, a zatem to idealne miejsce na odpoczynek od zgiełku i pracy za biurkiem. Z drugiej strony w Internecie mało jest relacji i fotografii z tego miejsca. Bałam się, że mój raj nie będzie tak rajski, jak na filmie „Niebiańska plaża” z Leonardo DiCaprio, który kręcono na Phi Phi (a wyspa ta na moją udrękę leży po nieszczęsnej, monsunowej stronie Tajlandii!). No cóż, kto nie ryzykuje, ten nie pije szampana!

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„Jedźmy też do Kambodży.”

Skoro wschód, to trzeba upiec dwie pieczenie na jednym ogniu. Zapadła, więc decyzja, żeby pojechać również do Kambodży i zobaczyć Angkor Wat. Jako dziecko chciałam zostać archeologiem, więc wizyta w tym miejscu, miała być dla mnie spełnieniem dziecięcych marzeń. I prawie tak było. Jednak prawie czyni różnicę, a dlaczego, opowiem przy okazji. W każdym razie plan podróży zaplanowany. Tydzień w tajskim raju, tydzień jako Indiana Jones.

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Wyspa Słonia i szczęśliwych ludzi

W Tajlandii wszystko jest Chang (taj. słoń). Piwo Chang, Knajpa Chang, Wyspa Chang. Słonie są silnie zakorzenione w tej kulturze. Trochę jak w Polsce bocian. W każdym razie, to niesamowite uczucie, kiedy siedzisz w barze Słonia, sącząc schłodzone piwko Słonia i oglądasz kąpiące się w morzu słonie na Wyspie Słonia. 😀

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Jednak to, co ujęło mnie najbardziej w tym miejscu, to nie słonie, nie Park Narodowy, który mógłby być plenerem Jurassic Park, ale wspaniali ludzie. Pierwszy raz w życiu widziałam tak bezinteresowne osoby. Mieszkańcy wysypy, chociaż są obeznani z ruchem turystycznym i nieźle na nim zarabiają, to wydają się żyć zupełnie poza typowym schematem zglobalizowanego świata. Wieczorową porą wyszliśmy na tajskie curry i pad thai, w restauracji okazało się, że zapomnieliśmy pieniędzy z hotelu. Już chcieliśmy biec czym prędzej po nasze miliony, a właściciel knajpy podchodzi do nas i mówi, że nie ma problemu i możemy zapłacić jutro. Jedzenie na kreskę! To jest nic! wyobraźcie sobie, że jedziecie na stacje benzynową bez odpowiedniej waluty i właściciel pozwala wam zapłacić jutro, jak będziecie przejazdem! Tak, tak. To możliwe na Koh Chang, z tym, że tutaj stacje benzynowe są na korbki 😀 Takie rzeczy oczywiście nie są możliwe w innych regionach kraju, gdzie masowa turystyka na pewno nauczyła Tajów, że takie postepowanie może przysporzyć dużych strat. Ale wybraliśmy właśnie to miejsce i to był strzał w dziesiątkę!

p1010612A najlepsze jest to, że po całym dniu pracy, 12 godzinach na nogach, Changom dalej nie schodzą uśmiechy z twarzy! Niezwykli ludzie!

Niebiańska plaża i dżungla

Skłamałabym, gdybym powiedziała, że entourage nie jest istotny. Jadąc do Tajlandii nastawiasz się na piękne plaże, dziką przyrodę i niskie ceny. I tu jest problem! Wiele miejsc w tym kraju zostało skolonizowanych przez turystów i piękne plaże są, ale pod względem gęstości zaludnienia przypominają bardziej Władysławowo z parawanami (Phi Phi). Dzika przyroda jest, ale ukryta gdzieś w Parkach, bo w kurortach, królują głośne bary i tania rozpusta (Pattaya). Tanio było, ale stale napływające rzesze turystów wywindowały ceny w kosmos (Phuket).

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To wszystko na szczęście nie dotyczy jeszcze Koh Chang! Plaże są jak z obrazka (tego obrazka, gdzie nad białą plażą góruje wygięta palma :D), dżungla zajmuje 99% obszaru wyspy (Mu Koh National Park), a do tego można wypoczywać tu w luksusowych warunkach w naprawdę przystępnych cenach (tylko piwo drogie 🙁 ).

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Moja rada? Pakuj się i jedź na Koh Chang!

Położenie:

Koh Chang to górzysta wyspa położona w Tajlandii Południowo-Wschodniej, Prowincja Trat (Zatoka Tajlandzka). Druga największa wyspa w Tajlandii (po Phuket). Niedaleko znajduje się granica z Kambodżą.

 Dojazd:

Samolotem do Bangkoku, a potem busem na Koh Chang. Ja skorzystałam z oferty linii lotniczych Air China i za przeloty na trasie Warszawa- Pekin- Bangkok zapłaciłam 1800 zł (rezerwacja z wyprzedzeniem 1,5 miesiąca). Bus zarezerwowany na Khao San Road w Bangkoku kosztował 650 baht (zaraz ktoś powie, że to drogo, ale ten bilet obejmował przejazd na trasie Bangkok- Trat, przeprawę promem oraz dowóz do hotelu; czas trwania 8 godzin). Inną możliwością jest lądowanie na lotnisku w Trat i stamtąd busem i promem na wyspę (ok. 1,5 godziny). Po wyspie jeżdżą taksówki, ale są stosunkowo drogie. Dla przykładu jeden dzień wypożyczenia skutera to 200 THB, a przejazd kilku kilometrów taksówką to 100 THB za osobę w jedną stronę.

Kiedy jechać?:

Od listopada do marca/kwietnia. Szczyt sezonu przypada na grudzień/ styczeń. W pozostałych miesiącach pogoda deszczowa, a według relacji świadków wyspa wydaje się wymarła. Trzeba jednak pamiętać, że to najtańszy okres i ceny sukcesywnie rosną wraz ze zbliżaniem się szczytu sezonu. Bardzo rzetelne informacje na temat klimatu w regionie znalazłam na stronie: mandalay.pl.

 Waluta:

Baht (THB) 1 THB = około 11 groszy. Na miejscu można wymienić dolary na bahty. Złotówki niewymienialne.

 Ceny:

Piwo- 56 THB, noclegi w bungalowach od 300 THB za noc, hotel 4* od 1200 THB za noc, obiad w restauracji tajskiej- 100 THB, wypożyczenie kajaka- 300 THB za 4 godziny, wypożyczenie skutera- 200 THB za dzień, paliwo- 40 THB za litr, pranie- 40 THB za kilogram, uśmiech i gościnność – za darmo 🙂

 Atrakcje:

Pływanie kajakiem na okoliczne małe wysepki, snorekling, pływanie ze słoniami, wyprawy na wodospady, przejście z jednej strony wyspy na drugą szlakiem w dżungli, wyprawy speedboatami na sąsiednie wyspy Koh Mak i Koh Kood, zwiedzanie wyspy na skuterze (uwaga na kręte drogi).

 Zdrowie:

Tajlandia ma dobrze rozwiniętą służbę zdrowia, w tym usługi z zakresu prywatnej opieki medycznej. Ma to jednak swoją cenę, pobyt w szpitalu kosztuje krocie. Podstawą jest ubezpieczenie się przed wyjazdem. Ewentualny pobyt w placówce medycznej może nas zrujnować finansowo. Na Koh Chang jest szpital i przychodnie międzynarodowe. Największym zagrożeniem dla zdrowia turysty są wypadki drogowe. W Tajlandii najwięcej ofiar wypadków jest wśród turystów. Po drugie malaria i denga, czyli choroby przenoszone przez komary. Jedynym bezpiecznym i tanim sposobem zapobiegania jest spryskiwanie całego ciała DEET o wysokim stężeniu, przed świtem i wieczorem (wtedy komary żerują), szczególnie w okresie pory deszczowej lub krótko po niej. Mnie ugryzło kilkadziesiąt komarów i żyję, więc nie należy popadać w obłęd w tej kwestii 🙂 Zatrucia pokarmowe praktycznie się nie zdarzają, a jeśli już to zazwyczaj po zjedzeniu czegoś co nie pochodzi z kuchni tajskiej. Najlepiej stołować się tam gdzie Tajowie albo na ulicy.

Koh Chang, Tajlandia

186 komentarzy

  1. Piękna rajska wyspa!
    Czy można przy okazji zapytać czy są inne ciekawe miejsca na lądzie dookoła?
    Dzięki!

    Agnieszka
    Listopad 21, 2016 Odpowiedz
    • BlondeOnHolidays

      Agnieszko,
      tereny o które pytasz, są bardzo rzadko odwiedzane przez turystów. To nadal tradycyjna i dzika Tajlandia, gdzie można obcować z naturą i kulturą Tajów. Moim zdaniem najciekawszymi miejscami są Parki Narodowe: Namtok Phliu, gdzie można podziwiać imponujące wodospady (85 km od Koh Chang) i Khao Khitchakut, gdzie można zobaczyć niesamowite formacje skalne i ośrodki kultu buddystycznego w górach (122 km z Koh Chang). Poza tym prowincja Trat leży przy granicy z Kambodżą, więc Wyspa Słonia jest dobrym punktem do rozpoczęcia wyprawy do Angkor i Tonle Sap (…ale, o tym w następnych moich postach z Azji :-))

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